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Border Crossing Tales

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There ain't no God in Mexico
Ain't no way to understand
How that border crossing feeling
Makes a fool out of a man
-Billy Joe Shaver

I doubt that anyone who has made very many trips into Mexico lacks a story or ten about "la frontera." I'm going to invite any and all to contribute to this section. After all, the whole point of these pages is to let potential visitors know what to expect - best summarized as "the unexpected!" So to lead off, let me take you back to the wee morning hours of September 18, 2006 just south of the Rio Bravo del Norte in Nuevo Laredo...

Violent thunderstorms had delayed my bus from picking me up in Austin until after midnight, more than an hour behind schedule. By the time we reached the border in the pre-dawn hours, we found ourselves in a long line of sothbound busses. The wait to reach Aduana (Mexican Customs) was more than two hours!

When we finally got to the front of the line, two customs officers climbed aboard and made an interesting proposition: A hat would be passed. If it was returned with $50.usd or more, rather than each passenger exiting the bus to push the "red/green" button, the driver would be allowed to push it for the entire bus. For those of you unfamiliar with the system, a "red" light means a search while a "green" gives the traveler a pass. While the system is purportedly random, the clear implication was that the driver was highly unlikely to hit a "red". And since on the southbound crossing, Mexican Nationals have far more reason to avoid a customs search, the hat was filled generously. Did I mention that I was the only gringo on the bus?

Quickly, the bus was underway again. This created one slight problem for the lone gringo on the bus. It's after the run through Aduana that non-Mexicans are separated out and sent to Migra (Immigration), where the FMT (Tourist Card) is issued. On reflection, I decided that the risk of being an undocumented immigrant were less than those run by insisting that the bus return to the border and re-endanger the rest of my fellow passengers. After all, I had my passport - a far more impressive document than an FMT when waved in the face of an overly demanding official. And if I got really unlucky, a hundred pesos or so would have probably been a sufficient show of appreciation to whatever official helped me avoid paying a "multi"(fine). And at the very worst, I might have gotten a free trip to the border a couple of days earler than planned.

But of course, my documents were never requested. But next time, while that bus idles in line, I'll know to exit the bus and walk on over to "La Migra."

OK, it's your turn. Send me your border crossing stories to john@johnzap.com.